Freiburg – land of no snow but the next best thing – firecrackers!

Our-Chalet

1 January 2013 – Well, I’m on the train to Frankfurt after a whirlwind trip to Freiburg. Thankfully, Nicole stayed with me to ensure I got on the right carriage/seat after my earlier debacle.  Yes, moi thought she had it all figured out as to where to stand on the platform in line with the carriage number. As I boarded the train and tried to find my seat I was confused as the numbers went down from 75 and I was 85.  I walked (rather fought my way through bags) as people huffed and puffed at me.  Carriage after carriage, I couldn’t find my seat and asked someone who said, “You have the right seat number but you are in Carriage 1, you have to go back to Carriage 4”.  OMG! I could have cried. I was sweating, tired and had to back track with 20kg bags in hand. By the time I found my seat I was shaking so much I couldn’t lift my bag on to the luggage rack.  Luckily a teenage boy helps me out. I settled into my seat and down the aspro to calm my nerves.

After a while, I note its very quiet, no one is talking and I realise this is a quiet zone.  An older couple leave and replaced by an older couple that could speak English.  I had been chatting to the woman near me as she spoke English and then we all started to talk.  It was great as the teenage boy wanted to practice his English, the woman wanted to ask about Australia and before I knew it, it was on for young and old to turn the quiet zone into a friendly exchange of talk.  I was excited, as up to this point, I hadn’t really had a proper conversation and was missing it.

I farewelled Katherine and we exchanged cards to keep in contact. We got on well as she told me how hard it was to get a job in the museums, as her degree was art/history.  She said it was tea-lady wages, starting at the bottom and with no possibilities of promotion.  Katherine moved to a town outside of Frankfurt to improve her work opportunities and now works for the council organising art festivals. She loves the job but the only downside…not many men to date!  Like me she was @ the same age and said it was mainly retirement people.  I said she could always date an older man – just wipe the dribble every now and then off his face!

The teenage boy was at technical school and starts an apprenticeship with Bosch in 2013.  I asked if it was the music group and he said no, it was engineering parts for cars, ovens etc.  I told him about a company with the same name which make entertainment systems, noise-reducing headphones etc.  Katherine and the older woman had to translate and everyone had a laugh as they teased him saying that’s what he’d rather do!

 

Okay, onto my adventure – Stefan and Nicole collect me from the station and we drive to Emmendingen (south of Germany).  Its dark, I have no idea what the country-side is like and as we get closer the trees are decorated with fairy lights, its starting to feel a lot like Christmas/New Years Eve.  We arrive and friends of Nicole and Marion welcome me.  It instantly feels like home and I settle in with a quick glass of white wine before we head to the restaurant for dinner.  It’s a typical German country style restaurant with lace curtains and Christmas decorations adorning every spare corner. Luckily Stefan helps me with the menu and we decide on deer with mushrooms – little Bambi as Nicole rubs it in!

As the night goes on I get tired and it dawns on me the jet lag is settling in.  By the time we arrive at the chalet my words slur and its clear I need to go to bed. I bid farewell and hit the pillow pretty quick.  Unfortunately, I wake up the ungodly hour of 4am.  The bright light shines through the glass door and while I try to sleep, eventually I spy the most stunning sunrise, and photograph the oranges/pink skies.

By 9am, I get ready so I’m not late for breakfast.  No one surfaces till after 10am as they all have dark rooms and it is then that I discover there are outdoor roller blinds that which block the daylight!

I meet people one by one and think how on earth will I remember names and its quite funny as I try to repeat in my head – Stefan, Lily, Katerina, Ben, Kyle and so on. We sit down to a German style breakfast – cold meats, cheeses, bread, butter, jams and freshly made coffee/peppermint tea.  Conversations flow in German and English and I enjoy the banter.  There are 8 adults and 5 children. Everyone knows each other through work or being neighbours and its funny because they chose Freiburg to have a snowy New Years Eve.  As it is, there is no snow and the 6-foot; orange/black snow markers look forlorn against the lush green grass.

I ‘m given the option to go to the supermarket and help Marion buy food for the party or go for a walk in the Black Forest.  I opt for the latter and we head on foot into the cold and I’m thankful for my thermal underwear. We head off through masses of fallen leaves, head down the valley and search for the tallest tree in Germany. We eventually find the tree and it’s a bit of a disappointment. Even worse, we realise we have to now walk back up the mountain!  But who cares! I enjoy the fresh air and thankful it’s not freezing.

Inside, while resting I realise it’s New Years Eve in Australia and Nicole decides we need champagne to celebrate! By 3pm, we decide to nap and re-group later.  However, jet lag prevents me from doing so and instead I write my first (this) blog for 2013.  At 6pm, I put on my party clothes and head downstairs where everyone is busy making food and drinking.  We watch a black and white film, “One for dinner”, which is a German tradition every NY.  It is a comedy skit, which keeps the children (and adults) laughing at the absurdity of the story. Katarina teaches Marion and I to make lotus flower napkin holders for the dips.  We have fun as we tackle origami and drink at the same time.  We sit down to a yummy indoor barbecue and fondue dinner.

We have a few hours to go till midnight and I check my emails/face book as its 11am in Australia.  I get carried away and again hotfoot it down to see everyone has paper stuck to his or her foreheads!  They are playing a game; I get allocated a name, stick it to my head with honey and think my new friends are pulling my leg!  We laugh and carry on as we try to guess.  Mine is not a character, is female, is well known, short and I sing “I should be so lucky” and everyone cracks up!  Ya, Kylie Minogue.

Suddenly, coats and scarves are being donned and before I know it we are singing Happy Birthday to one of the friends and wishing birthday and NY wishes.  It is perfect.  Nicole summons us outside to get the firecrackers happening.  It hits me how cold it is and the wind whips through my jeans.  But, the town of Freiburg provides us a glorious show as firecrackers go off across the skyline.  It is panoramic and a fairy-tale ending to my trip to Germany and being looked after so dearly by my friends Marion, Nicole and Julius and of course their wonderful friends and children.

I fly to Copenhagen in the morning and this is where reality will set in. Like most people, I will be heading to work and madly creating ceramics for 6 weeks.

 

Singapore and Frankfurt – lost passport, 160 miles cab ride and the sales!

As some of you may be aware I’m now in Germany for a little holiday and then to Denmark for my first international arts residency.  It’s the sort of ‘holiday’ my family and friends are slightly envious of as they see me jet set (yet again!) to another exciting destination.

I left Australia 28 December 2012 and arrived at Frankfurt Airport on Saturday at 6:10am feeling a little flustered after losing my passport in Singapore. I went to buy perfume at the duty free shop and couldn’t find my passport…I panicked…checked bags in and out and went straight to the info desk.  I explained I must have left it on the plane.  She smiled and said Mrs Masters!  I said yes and how did you know? She replied “we have been paging you for a while. It is a loud speaker system”.  I apologised and said I was still tired from the trip and very embarrassed at my mishap of leaving the passport on the plane (it slid out during the landing but I didn’t see it).  Little did she know I was busy trying on perfume to buy and totally zoned out to anything beyond which fragrance to choose!

Anyway, I’m now in Frankfurt after hair-raising 160 miles cabs ride along the autobahn and a full day exploring the city on foot.  I think I covered 50kms (felt more like 100kms) in total as I pounded the walking paths, pavements, cobbled streets and shop floors. It wasn’t till I got home @ 6pm and took my shoes off I realized I had bloodied feet, torn my brand new stockings all in the sake of being a tourist.  But it was worth it all as I was so lucky to have sunny weather the whole day and later found out it had been raining all week – hence the crowds.  Actually, I discovered the reason why there were so many people out and about was the sales.  Yes, end of year/post Christmas sales and everyone was on the hunt.  I tried in vain to look for a proper winter jacket in the popular shopping strip – Ziel.

My cute duffle coat won’t cut below 1 degree and do you think I ended up finding one?  I was confused with all the brands and so many look like skiing jackets and moi does not slide anywhere, as she’s not a fan of the slopes. While I saw a lot of American brands I really wanted to buy a German jacket designed especially for their winters.  I had no luck finding someone to help as sales assistants were run off their feet and I think I had tourist written all over my face as they avoided me.  Generally speaking, most people were helpful but English was limited.  A shame. Well onwards and upwards as I head to the flashier end of town – Goethstraße.

This is where all the luxury fashion and jewellery houses are and I came across a second hand shop (these are very popular in Germany).  The ladies were fantastic as they chatted to me about Australia, shopping and helping me find a jacket.  While they had beautiful weekend wear jackets they were not practical for day-to-day wear.  As I headed to another part of town it started to get cold and I put on my hat, scarf and gloves. Quelle horreur – a glove is missing!  I panic and retrace my 1000 steps all the way back to every shop I’ve visited.  I’m a crazed woman as I have lost my favourite leather glove.  No such luck and I head off to the next district, which is more art/design/craft, focused.  I exit the train station and am totally lost as the street signs and map are confusing.  I ask for directions and find that the street I want is split in two – go figure!! It’s getting dark and finally I find the shops I really wanted to look at.  I zip in and out, trying on cute skirts, looking at designer items and eventually find the shop I was after.  Although it’s a fashion shop and I explain to the man the shop I want.  I show him my trusty book and he says “Yes, my friend owned that, she got pregnant, and offered me the space so I now have it”.  Anyway, I decide to check it out and to my amusement he and this lady want to read my little Wallpaper guide, ask me all sorts of questions and offer me a glass of champagne once they hear how far I’ve walked.  I spy a top, try it on and discover he is the designer.  Instantly, I purchase the top as its my one and only purchase (a shocker as I had been shopping for 6hrs!).  TIP:  don’t focus on purchasing one item like I did….I was fixated with trying to buy a jacket and missed out on so many other nicer things to buy).

On Sunday I had a srumptious breakfast in the Wintergarden with its twinkling candles, ornate candelabra and his and her matching joggers running past outside next to the Main river.

I plan to catch a train from Frankfurt to Freiburg to meet my friends Marion and Nicole as they whisk me off to the black forest (Schwarzwald) to celebrate New Years Eve with 8 grown ups and 6 children on a farm with cute family apartments. The Bauernhof is located in Emmendingen (near Freiburg) in the very south of Germany – the site is written in German but if you check it out the photographs you can see how quaint the setting is http://www.ferienhof-buehrer.de/index.cfm.

Well, auf Wiedersehen (bid farewell) and please watch this blog as I continue to post about my adventures in Germany and Denmark – the land of snow, fairy lights and gløgg (mulled wine). Oh! And Happy New Year to everyone!