Copenhagen – Retro Danish furniture, Gløgg and Hygee

Well, I’ve decided Copenhagen has now hit my top 5 places I want to live in when Adam and I plan to go overseas for a few years.  I thought Florence and Berlin were pretty high up but now Copenhagen is showing its stylish flair even when its -4 and snowing during the day!

Seeing the sights of the city on my one and only blue skies day...
Seeing the sights of the city on my one and only blue skies day…
Copenhagen-Central-Train-Station
Copenhagen-Central-Train-Station
Tivoli amid metro construction affecting all of Copenhagen city
Tivoli amid metro construction affecting all of Copenhagen city

I’m staying at Hotel Alexandra – a beautiful retro Danish hotel which focuses on Danish furniture designers, the environment and making guests feel like they are at home.  No chain hotels need apply when it comes to moi traveling.  I’ve become friends with April who is Acting Front Desk and she has been with the hotel for 5 years.  This says something about her and her employees.  She absolutely loves her job and she’s the sort of person you’d love to employ any day. April has helped me every step of the way, let me have a peek at the more sleeker (and expensive rooms), booked my restaurant, asked me about my day and has been so so nice that I feel like I’ve known her for ages.  Adam and I are definitely coming back to Copenhagen and staying here for a week.  Three days is not long enough as I feel I’m trying to squeeze in as much as I can.

So, what did I do?  Well, I think I’ve shopped, eaten, drunk and walked myself silly but geez what a city.  Its clearly design/architect focused and everyone knows how to dress for winter – stylish and of course practically. So here’s a brief rundown of 72 hours in Copenhagen:

Zoo Design – a mecca for artists in the visual arts to showcase ceramics, jewellery, textiles and glass.  I could have stayed here all day.  Two hours later I managed to buy 2 gifts and 1 little one for Adam and I.

Designer-Zoo-inside
Designer-Zoo-inside
A-jeweller-in-her-studio-at-Designer-Zoo
A-jeweller-in-her-studio-at-Designer-Zoo

Rosenborg – to be honest I really didn’t know what to expect and when I started to go through the Castle and read about the tapestries in the Great Hall….suddenly I sped up on Denmark’s history and its wars.  I had no idea Denmark actually owned a lot of land through Sweden, Norway and Germany and had to fight long battles, losing many soldiers, and still not regain some of its territory.  Well, one of the Kings (Christian # I can’t remember) commissioned tapestries to be made and they certainly told a very different story regarding ‘conquests’ compared to what actually happened.  So, its interesting to see how churches and royalty are similar in representing their visual version of supposed events.

Rosenberg-Castle
Rosenberg-Castle
Rosenberg-Castle-buildings
Rosenberg-Castle-buildings
Rosenberg-Castle-Guard
Rosenberg-Castle-Guard

Hviids Vinstue – I read this 300 year old tavern served Gløgg – a spicy mulled wine – and I was keen to try it out.

Gløgg served in a little glass with a spoon...
Gløgg served in a little glass with a spoon…

Well, I arrived and what appeared at first to be a Gentleman’s club became a bit more relaxed as couples, families and single people were merrily drinking away and everyone spoke Danish.  No tourists in sight…well except for moi!  As it was, a smartly dressed older waiter asked me what I’d like and I mentioned the mulled wine and he merrily disappeared and came back, plonked it on my table and disappeared again.  I sat there and eventually asked the ladies behind me how it worked in terms of paying.  They said just pay when you leave. Of course..silly me!

So, as I watched people come and go eventually I needed to go to the ladies but didn’t want to leave my gear behind.  I asked a couple would they mind watching.  No dramas.  I came back and we chatted for 1/2hr. It turns out she was an owner of an advertising agency  and we swapped notes on how clients always wanted the impossible the day before! I asked her husband about whether there was a Danish team I could get a jersey for my husband as I had no idea.  Yes, we play soccer not football.  But he loves our Aussie Rules and I joked with his wife that the men were much better looking than the stocky, ordinary looking rugby players.  We talked about the cricket, New Zealand, if Hobart was another country…I nearly fell over and explained no its part of Australia, ceramics, which galleries to go to while I was here and it was great to have a chat and not feel so obviously alone at my table drinking my 2nd drink – Danish beer.

When plans change…

For my last day I had roughly worked out what to do.  By the time I skyped the family it was well after 11am when I hit the streets.  I was going to visit the Christiansborg Palace first but realised I had to wait till 1.30pm to access some of the areas.  So, instead I decided to go to Bredgade Street where all the galleries are…well yes, the ones that showcase 1 painting by 1 artist in a massive room (I’m sorry but that is not normal), the very expensive antique shops and old women wearing fox/animal fur coats and tonnes of makeup.  I was beginning to wonder what I was doing…luckily the Marmorkirken (Marble Church) came into view and I was able to check out its cupola.  Sadly, I couldn’t get a bird’s eye view of the city as the tower was only open Sat, Sun and public holidays.

Cupola-at-Marmorkirken-Marble-Church
Cupola-at-Marmorkirken-Marble-Church
Marmorkirken-Marble-Church
Marmorkirken-Marble-Church

As I headed into the streets I realised I had dropped my faithful map at some point and then chose to go down some street and hopefully head back in the right direction.  I came across a familiar sign – Keramik! Yeah, I popped in and met 3 lovely ceramic artists sharing a very small space in the basement.  We chatted about the Center, my work, their work and when they asked my plans…they tsked tsked the Palace and said no, go to Davids Samling – a museum containing the best collection of porcelain, Islamic art and contemporary Danish works – plus its free! They also gave me the name of local artists/galleries to visit along the way.  So, I’m glad I took their advice as the Samling Museum was amazing.  It was also warm, with carpet, beautiful rooms,  incredible artwork and it made Rosenberg Castle look very ho hum! In fact, the feeling was Hygee, which roughly translates into cosy. Winter in Denmark can be cold, grey and long so most places put a lot of emphasis on their homes, their work place and where they eat – blankets, candles, cushions – anything to give you a warm, cosy feeling.

One-of-many-opulent-rooms-at-David-Samling
One-of-many-opulent-rooms-at-David-Samling
Porcelain-collection-at-David-Samling
Porcelain-collection-at-David-Samling
Sliding-door-into-the-next-room-at-David-Samling...Oh! I so want one!
Sliding-door-into-the-next-room-at-David-Samling…Oh! I so want one!

I then had to rush into town for last minute gifts before heading back to the hotel and changing for dinner.  Well, what a interesting night…after a free bus ride and entertaining the bus driver, I found myself in the dodgy end of town and panicked as the streets were dark and I was totally lost.  Reading a map in the dark isn’t fun and silly me forgot my torch in my pocket…I just got very flustered.  I finally found the place and then they sat me in the foyer entrance overlooking the kitchen.  I explained a booking was made in the restaurant and was this a temporary arrangement?  No, this is where we sit single people.  Mmmm….overlooking the dirty kitchen sink.  No, I don’t think so!  So, I summed up the courage to explain I had booked a table and according to Wallpaper City Guide the photo did not show the kitchen as a main feature.  As their English and my Danish was limited it was clear that they were not going to move me. So, I gathered my coat, gloves and hat and said I was very disappointed as I had come a long way to experience the Nordic cooking.  I left, and then had to make my way back to the bus stop in the dark and my last meal wasn’t looking crash hot.  So, back to the hotel and a Vietnamese beef and noodle dish with red wine gave me the boost I needed.

Heading home

At last, 7 weeks later I’m heading home on the big silver bird tomorrow morning.  I’m excited as this is my last night in Copenhagen.  Three days in a major city is not long enough.  I highly recommend at least 5-7 days to fully explore a city and to always be open to changing even the best of laid out plans.  Sometimes, you get to see another side of the city that is not always recommended in travel books/brochures etc.  I also recommend that you go parallel to the ‘tourist’ streets – I’m not saying don’t do them, but the next day try a street or 2 either side as you’ll be suprised as to what you will find.

Thank you for reading my virtual travel experience as an artist-in-residence and as a tourist abroad.  I’ve had a wonderful time and am already planning future trips. American historian Miriam Rita Beard sums up best what travel means to me:

Travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living.

Self portrait on test tile
Self portrait on test tile

Photo gallery – Roskilde and Skælskør, Denmark

Loving-the-walk-castle-crisp-air-and-all-Denmark-has-to-offer
Loving-the-walk-castle-crisp-air-and-all-Denmark-has-to-offer

A photo gallery to end my time in Zealand where the medieval towns of Skælskør and Roskilde reside. From a stunning Cathedral, glass studio and Viking Museum in Roskilde, to walking @ the Skælskør Nor and then ending with the glorious and romantic 17th Century Borreby Castle (well almost ending…Marie and I went to Kobæk Strand (beach) on Monday and I couldn’t resist showing snow at the beach!) – its all been an amazing travel and photographic experience.  Enjoy!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A firing disaster, a few tears and lessons learned

Well, reality has certainly bitten this little petal.  After an agonizing time carefully loading my eight tiles into the bisque kiln on Saturday I finally opened the door on Monday morning to uncover a firing disaster.  I knew one of the tiles had broken, as Christina checked late Sunday night, so I braced myself as to which one I had lost.  It wasn’t until when removing the tiles one by one I realized something had gone terribly wrong.  Tile after tile – major cracks – and when I got to the shelf that’s when I didn’t know whether to laugh or cry.  The kiln shelf had split fair into two pieces.  Out of the eight tiles I made, only two survived and one partially – as Adam kindly pointed out “it was only a 75% failure rate”.  I laid them all out on the bench, photographed them and headed straight back to my room.  I felt so deflated and could have kicked myself – where did I do wrong?

I had read up on the Internet – reliable ceramic sites to work out how to bisque large tiles.  I found some great sites/detailed information but they all related to small bathroom tiles and nothing my size or depth.  I chatted to another artist in residence who was confident I could lay the tiles on top of each other.  I had plans to lay one on each shelf – but we didn’t have enough shelves for that option. So, I had the yellow clay tiles on 2 separate shelves and the white clay tiles stacked carefully on each other.

I didn’t know one kiln shelf had a hairline fracture and the weight of the tiles combined with the fracture may have been the cause for the break.  Our Technician Rachel hadn’t seen anything like it before and was surprised at the outcome.  We talked about what the cause was but couldn’t give a definitive answer.  She suggested next time I stack them side by side with bricks – like toast in one of those old-fashioned toast stands.

Silver-PLATED-TOAST-RACK-6-slice
Silver-PLATED-TOAST-RACK-6-slice

Someone else suggested clay coils around each of the tiles to slow down the heat so it’s not fast on the outside and a shock to the center.  So lots of ideas and if any ceramicist out there can give me tips I’d so much welcome them as I’m keen to continue making these tiles when I come home.

The good news is someone upstairs must have been looking after me as the two tiles, which survived, were in fact the most important – the main feature tiles for the old/serene body of work.  At least I can work with something and the other good news, which Adam also pointed out “you’ll save on shipping costs now!” He of course totally understood, felt bad about my firing and let me have a good sob over Skype.

So, today I woke up with a massive hangover after drinking a tad too much – probably because I knew I needed to commiserate, held my last dinner duty with the gorgeous Evelyn from Estonia, given a presentation to Project Network 2013 members on tips to improve grant applications and only had one more kiln firing to go.  Anyway,  onwards and upwards and I have to say one of the girls here made me realize  you have to embrace ceramics with all its uncontrollable elements and be prepared for breakages, kiln and/or glaze disasters.  Only the day before, another artist accidentally knocked over one of Claire’s exhibition pieces. He was mortified and she was calm as she quickly threw the piece in the bin.  She made the whole incident painless and is truly a model of graciousness and practicality.

Anyway, I spent today glazing my two tiles and I’m happy with the results.  The work, along with the pendants will be ready to put in the kiln on Wednesday and should be out some time Friday.

Post note: the works came out today….and sadly, another firing disaster.  It just seems I been given the ultimate test ‘to harden up princess’ as Adam says. Well, I opened the door to see one big gooey hard mess in front of me.

 

Glaze-firing-an-expensive-exercise
Glaze-firing-an-expensive-exercise

We had to wait till the kiln cooled down and Rachel helped me pull the shelves out. Two were joined together and when we pulled them all out we assessed the damage – to the shelves and the element.  Whatever work came out went straight to my desk with no interest.  I was worried about the damage.  We got a hammer and chisel and she showed me what I’d have to do to get rid of the glaze.  The glaze is hard as rock and when you break it, its like glass.  So, we worked carefully but struggled to avoid the actual shelf from being ruined.  So, she left me and 2hrs later I tried my best to rescue the shelves. Two of the shelves are not savable and with a damaged wire I’m going to be up for some big $$’s.  My budget for the firings has been totally blown out.  I also lost 1/2 my pendants which had been made as gifts for people here.  So, unfortunately that special project is out the window.  As for my 2 tiles, they somehow managed to be okay.  I did take a photo to put in this posting but it could have helped if I put the memory card in!  Its now too late as I’ve bubble wrapped my works in preparation for leaving. So lesson learned…don’t put a low fire clay in a high fire clay firing.  I didn’t realise I had made this mistake and now I know what happens and trust me I won’t be making this expensive mistake again…

So, this is probably my last posting related to my time here as an artist-in-residence. I’m pleased I took myself out of my comfort zone and explore new clays, glazes and forms.  This is the complete opposite to what I did at University and I’m so glad I didn’t create the same work and play it safe.  I’m looking forward to coming home as I miss Adam, Miami and of course family, friends and work colleagues.  I will also miss my new friends made here at Guldagergaard.  Its been an amazing experience and one I highly recommend any ceramic artist to consider as part of their career…just start saving now and be open to all that ceramics throws at you!

 

Anne-celebrating-at-the-exhibition
Anne-celebrating-at-the-exhibition

A pretty chair drawing

When I first arrived at the Ceramic Center and spied this chair in my room…all I could think was…how do I smuggle it home!

Pretty-chair-in-my-danish-bedroom
Pretty-chair-in-my-danish-bedroom

It’s a cute sitting chair and I imagine long ago dainty women would sit in a room and sew beautiful handkerchiefs by hand. As for moi…she can’t sew, knit or anything that involves the delicate textiles art form.  But drawing and capturing my favourite chair…well I’d be remiss not to do this before I leave.

So here are three photos.  The original chair, my pencil drawing and then the final drawing.  I use pro-marker pens and couldn’t help but purchase a box of 12 new pretty colours.  It only cost 149 DKK (@$25 AUD). Back home the same set costs $119 which makes me wonder why some businesses charge so much! I don’t mind paying but geez explain the inflation…Anyway, I hope you enjoy this little drawing and a change from photos and writing.

 

 

 

Pretty-chair-in-colour
Pretty-chair-in-colour
Pretty-chair-in-pencil
Pretty-chair-in-pencil